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Pick a connector for internal PCB harnessing

Board-to-wire wiring inside an enclosure — power and signal from a PCB to other assemblies.

Use this when

  • The connection is internal and protected by the enclosure.
  • You want positive latches, polarization, and (in volume) secondary locks — not loose header pins.

Avoid this when

Families to start with

  • Molex Micro-Fit (and Mini-Fit / Nano-Fit) for internal power.
  • PicoBlade / JST-GH and similar for signal.
  • TE and Harwin families where their ratings and latches fit.

These are not "hobby" parts — professional versions have latches, polarization, secondary locks (TPA), and defined ratings. The dividing line is the specific family and rating, not the brand (see Major Connector Categories).

Search terms

  • Micro-Fit wire-to-board latching connector crimp housing
  • JST GH 1.25mm wire-to-board connector

Specs to check

  • Current and wire gauge vs. the contact.
  • Latch and TPA / secondary lock availability.
  • Vibration exposure and whether the latch/lock is adequate.
  • Tooling — the correct crimp tool and contacts for the exact family.
  • Keying / polarization, especially in volume production.

Parts people forget

  • Crimp tooling and the correct contacts for the family.
  • The TPA / secondary lock and a keyed housing.

See What People Forget.

Common traps

  • Pushing a hobby connector beyond its rating.
  • Loose 0.1″ headers or bare solder joints where a latched, keyed housing belongs.
  • No keying in volume production, so assemblies get cross-plugged.

Questions to ask a vendor/FAE

  • What is the current/voltage rating of this exact family and contact?
  • What crimp tool and contact part numbers are required?
  • Is a TPA / secondary lock and a keyed/polarized housing available?

Example documentation bundle

Related: Decision Examples · Consumer / Hobby / Prototype connectors · for quick prototyping with pre-crimped leads and kit parts, the hobby track's Crimping and Marketplace Kits pages.